DUNCANS MILLS 1

Old California

First a part of a large Mexican land grant, the town was founded not long after Alexander Duncan arrived in 1877 to began a sawmill operation. By the 1880s there were two hotels, a saloon, a meat market, blacksmith and livery stables and this general store.

With the lumber mill came the railroad. Duncans Mills became the funnel through which hundreds of thousands of board feet of redwood lumber were loaded aboard trains that followed the hills and creek beds down to waiting ships in San Francisco Bay.

For almost 60 years trains hauled freight (and passengers) to the the terminal in Sausalito. We sure don't think of Sausalito as being a railroad town, as trendy as it is now. The ledger in the foreground recorded the daily flow of rail traffic and the old fashioned phones at left kept the stationmasters in touch with each other and the outside world. It had to be a pretty busy place with three telephones.

Served by the North Pacific Coast Railroad and its unusually colored cabooses, the owners began building a narrow gauge steam line in 1874. It reached Duncans Mills not long after the mill opened. In 1902 new owners, at what must have been at great expense, transformed the track to standard gauge and installed powerlines to serve new electric engines. Redwood lumber remained the dominant item of freight. Since shutting down in in the 1930s, all of the right-of-way eventually became abandoned. The line stretched 93 miles to the Bay - what a wonderfully scenic journey it must have been as a passenger.

SCOTTY'S OTHER "CASTLE"

Where Legends Really Reside

A man's home is his castle, or so it is said. Not for Walter Scott, the "Scotty" in Scotty's Castle. When the gates were closed, Scotty didn't bunk down here if he could avoid it. For many years Scotty was whomever other people wanted him to be: a cowboy in Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show; a huckster, verging on the criminal, for low-grade mines and finally, entertainer for eccentric Albert Johnson's guests. It was Johnson's vision and money that built Scotty's Castle. The real Scotty was an ornament.

In some respects Albert Johnson was an honorable man and more than likely became one of Scotty's few real friends. Johnson built not only the Castle but also the house that Scotty got to live in and finally be himself.

Unusually plush for a simple desert structure, considering it was built in the late 1920s. It was constructed with 2x6 insulated walls and clad inside and out in redwood. Scotty's real home was truly his castle.

Here he could be himself. And that self was a slob, as this one of many historic photos indicates. The National Park Service has obviously cleaned things up. The tour is not often offered. Indeed there were only 3 of us that met the ranger for the mile hike to Scotty's home.

Both the Castle and the cabin share the same method of fencing that has been in place for almost 100 years. The wire fence has never had to be replaced as rust is held in check by the remarkably low humidity and lack of rain. The fence also surrounds both properties. The "S" & "J" stand for Scott and Johnson. From the hills behind that fence springs give up 420 gallons per minute. That's what the fence protected.

With the same fencing as mute evidence in the background, our guide, Ranger Scott Combs, shows how Albert Johnson defused the barricading of the water supply for those who once lived or ran animals in the area. He built the stone structure visible in both the photo and behind our guide. It was a catchbasin for a water pipe that delivered water to those outside the fence. That is Walter Scott and Albert Johnson by the cistern.

At one time, Johnson and Scott cleared a 5 acre plot and for one season planted and harvested alfalfa in order to meet government requirements for homesteading the land.

Characters and charlatans come and go, but what is almost ever present is the animal life that surrounds us, all the more remarkable in Death Valley. The National Park Service chooses not to use traditional bait (which may kill other critters) but rather the lure of a nesting material (cotton). Our guide told us that in three years giving this tour in the Park, he's never seen a trap sprung.

BACKROADS CALIFORNIA

Standish

It may not take much to realize the great truth in this sign.

But we are not lost, just a little off route and on our way to Death Valley via NE California and W Nevada. This 106 year old building (on the National Register) was once Neil's Mercantile Store. On the ground floor was a general store. Upstairs was where the cattlemen of the region had their meetings and social functions. 

As Neil's Mercantile looked in 1910. Later the peaked roof was added and the false front removed. That is the Reid Hotel at right, long since demolished. Image courtesy the Day's End RV park.

Though folks are living in this old building, its last commercial function was as a roller rink and dance hall. It was just down the street from the mercantile store. I could find out no more history on this well building log structure.

The colorful flare in the center of the sky is called a sun dog or mock sun or phantom sun. They are caused when the sun hits a collection of hexagonal ice crystals, called diamond dust. The resultant flare of light is scattered as when it passes through a prism.

EUREKA!

Carson Mansion

Eureka, California has bragging rights on one of the West's most stunning Victorian structures. Built by lumber baron William Carson in 1884, it took a visit to Wikipedia to learn that the style of this mansion is more than just simple Victorian: It is " Eastlake, Italianate, Queen Anne (primary), and Stick, depending on the expert." Who knew. The mansion is now a private club.

FERNANDINA BEACH, FLORIDA

Full Stop

After seeing so many beautiful homes over the last few weeks, I thought I'd be rather blasé over another raft of them on Amalie Island. 

Not so. This small town had quite the collection of very well maintained classics.

Another stunner - Queen Ann style.
One of the reasons that there are over 400 historically significant buildings is that the first cross-Florida railroad began here and then Fernandina beach became an important shipping terminal to the rest of the world.

Gingerbread detail from one of the smaller cottages. 

Appropriately, this is known as the Tabby House for the type of concrete used in the structure. I've come to the conclusion that as much as I love concrete as a building material, tabby concrete doesn't always please my eye especially when incorporated into some architectural designs.

The Bailey Mansion was, up until recently, a B & B but tightening building safety requirements forced the owners to sell.

This home typlifies what I think of as Southern style of architecture with wide two story verandas, storm shutters and lap siding. The flowering shrub in the foreground is called a shrimp flower plant. Camellias bloom at the edge of the picture.

Though our two week cruise has stretched into a two month travelog, things are far from over. Over the next few months the blog will focus on the sights closer to home, or at least the West. Stay tuned and thanks for traveling in the passenger seat. If you have comments you can leave them at the blogsite (ferrytrails.blogspot.com). Emails are always appreciated but if you are a subscriber do not reply to the blog post directly as it is a "no-reply" type of email; drop me a note directly (billatferry360dotcom).

CROSSING THE LINE

From Georgia To Florida

Along the way we saw this. A strange structure with a very specific purpose.

We also saw two Navy ships also with a very specific purpose.

Adding to the mystery, two hangars that open on to the water. Any idea what we are dealing with?

It is all part of Kings Bay Nuclear Submarine Base near the Georgia - Florida state line. From what I could learn, there are three classes of subs that homeport here. 

Sometimes submarine resupply operations take place far from home, which is a service the two ocean going Navy tugs can provide (previous pictures). Also previously the two hangars can keep prying sky-eyes away from maintenance and munition duties. 

One of our passengers onboard was a navy vet and he said that the large steel frame cage in the top image was something called a degausser, which was developed during WW II to removes the magnetic field that exists in a ship steel hull that would cause a mine to detonate as it got close. Today the cage removes the magnetic signature from these sleek warships and, in theory, allows them to pass unnoticed from foreign listening devices.

Also passing frequently undetected for most all of the two weeks that we have been cruising have been porpoises. Occasionally the cry would go out, "Oh, look, fish!", and of course the porpoises would disappear. These two did not escape the camera.

We would hit pockets of industrial activity as we moved in and out of larger shipping channels. This is a paper mill.

We did see reminders of the destructiveness of Hurricane Sandy. Tidal surge can do more damage than the wind and rain.

BRUNSWICK, GA #2

Back From The Water

Jekyll Island is a place of dowagers. That's the way these wonderful old turn-of-the-century buildings strike me - stately and very much in possession of their aging faculties. The Jekyll Island Club was once the winter playground of the very rich. The original clubhouse above was built in 1888 and is still in use as a hotel.

As part of the Jekyll Island Club Historical District there are a number of preserved "cottages." This is Moss Cottage built by a founder of The Great Atlantic & Pacific Tea company, more commonly known as A & P. As the original founders died off, the cost of maintaining these palaces often became too much to bear for the heirs. 

Another "cottage" is Indian Mound, built by one of the Rockefellers. Many of the remaining original resident's heirs abandoned the area from the lingering effects of the Depression and suffered further when the US Government closed the area due to the threat of bombardment. The Historic District has just spent over a quarter million dollars restoring this 24 room mansion. Proceeds come from tours and donations.

As its name suggests Faith Chapel serves all faiths. For many years during WW II most of the mansions and cottages sat empty. Most homes lost furnishings and decor. This church has two stunning stained glass windows that were left, despite other parts of the church being ransacked. How high were the high fliers that formed the Club and built their own cottages? Many of the winter residents came together (in secret, natch) to create today's Federal Reserve System. 

Not all of the structures have been renovated. This Italianate tabby concrete house remains untouched. After the abandonment that the war years brought, the State of Georgia attempted to run the Club as a public resort but failed. Though the Radisson chain brought new life back into the Clubhouse in the mid 1980s, the Jekyll Island Club now is operated as a historical landmark.

Another bit of history from the heyday of the Jeckyll Island Club was the placement of the first Transcontinental Telephone call. It was actually a three legged call between Alexander Graham Bell in San Francisco, Thomas Watson in New York City and the head of A T & T, Theodore Vail, on Jekyll Island.

The grounds are a showplace for flora too. Though commonly misnamed as a palm tree, this is a Sago Cycad. The red seeds peeking out from the center denote that this is a female plant. They are extremely toxic.

SURROUNDING SAVANNAH

It's All Old

An early plantation on the outskirts of Savannah now in the hands of the Georgia State Parks Department, Wormsloe features this arcade lined entrance with live oaks. This image only hints at the length of the mile and a half driveway.

Savannah's oldest and largest Live Oak can be found at the edge of the "Magnificent Oaks" subdivision. 

It is over 300 years old and was growing before Georgia was named a British colony.

Fort Pulaski was deemed,"As strong as the Rocky Mountains" and completed in 1847 as a Federal stronghold designed against "foreign" invaders. The Fort fell into Confederate hands at the beginning of the Civil War.

With in months of the start of the Civil War, Fort Pulaski faced it's first test as a stronghold. After only a day and a half bombardment of the fort by Union forces, the Confederates raised the white flag. The Feds were successful in retaking the fort due to a new "rifled" big bore cannon which easily covered a greater distance and delivered a more accurately explosive shell. Rifling (the helical groves cut into the inside of a barrel) is now common in most every pistol and rifle.

Even young alligators look old

How old is Savannah? Let's just say it is still aging.

SAVANNAH SQUARES

And A Round

Perhaps the most visited square in Savannah is Monterey. Folks don't always come to enjoy the beauty - they come to see the Mercer House, site of a murder made famous in both book and movie form: "Midnight In The Garden Of Good And Evil." Do you remember the story? Now do you remember that there were 4 trials - all ending in overturned or innocent verdicts. The OJ of his day, that was James Arthur Williams. Pity he was remembered for the gruesome details and not for the over 50 homes and mansions that he also restored in Savannah.

A Church, yes? Well, call it Temple Mickvie Israel and you'd have it right. This is the only synagogue in the US designed in the Gothic Revival style and the temple houses the third oldest practicing Jewish congregation in the US. It anchors the other end of Monterey Square.

In 1730 British colonist James Oglethorpe began working on what would be one of the most liveable city plans anywhere. Gridded neighborhoods designed around a common square became the blueprint for what is now Savannah's Historic District.  Oglethorpe lived to see 6 of the squares completed. Today 22 remain as "Progress" claimed two of them.  Most photographed is Forsyth Park, above.

Though many individuals like Mr. Williams have contributed over the years to the restoration of Savannah's historic core, few entities have done as much as SCAD in recent years. Founded as a private college in 1978, Savannah College Of Art And Design created an innovative program that has brought over 67 buildings back to life as architectural treasures. In addition to charging tuition the school also sells bonds (to many of the student's parents). The bonds have offered a generous payback to bondholders while at the same time allowing the college to purchase core structures. Then SCAD focuses academically on the restoration of those buildings. All the school's disciplines are brought to bear in examining each structure and students are involved in all facets of the rehabilitation. Revenue for the bondholders comes from the new tenants that move into these restored gems.

Not all historic houses are in the original District. As the town outgrew its grid of squares and neighborhood, housing spread west and so in many neighborhoods there is the touch of Victorian and other styles.

This is the "Round" mentioned in the subtitle. I had thought that working roundhouses were a thing of the past. Apparently no one told the Roundhouse Railroad Museum in Savannah. They have bragging rights to the "oldest and largest existing nineteenth-century railroad complex in the nation."

CHARLESTON OLDTOWN

Commercial Charm

Daughter of the Confederacy? No but that's the name of the upstairs museum that Beth is standing in front of. More formally the structure is known as the City Market building. The market extends back for at least three blocks and begins under the archway. Many of the merchants were offering higher end goods - artwork and the like.

Some of the items unique to this area (and found at the City Market) are sweetgrass baskets woven by local blacks. There is a whole culture including a separate language called "Gullah". This term also describes the name they give themselves. Learning that there is even a long established Gullah culture came as a complete surprise to me. For more go to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gullah

Charleston has made great use of most all of their historic buildings. Built in 1861, this is the old Rice Exchange which has been converted to a convention center.

 City hall was nearly ruined by Hurrican Hugo in 1989. Now it practically shines. As an aside, we took advantage of their public restrooms and found them to be the cleanest and most modern facility that we'd ever seen. It was a pleasure to, ah, sit for a spell.

A pretty typical commercial block of shops. There is only one building over 4 stories (seen at far right) in Old Town so there is a pleasing uniformity to the district. Charleston actually has several divisions to its Old Town: colonial, antebellum and post civil war.

This is the first of two custom houses in Charleston's history. The Old Exchange and Provost Dungeon served first as a colonial trade building and dates back to 1771.  Not many buildings in America can boast of having a dungeon. Though started by the colonial owners, the Brits, the dungeon was later used to imprison them during the Revolutionary War. Talk about karma. Some sources also say that this building housed a brothel after the Civil War.

This second custom house looks more like a courthouse than anything else. Started before the Civil War but not completed until well after in 1879. It survived a major 7.0 earthquake in Charleston in August of 1886. This bought an "End Time" crazy out of the woodwork. A man known locally as the Ottawa Prophet, emerged to proclaim that a more powerful disaster would occur at 2 pm on September 29. His believers freaked, quit working, put on their "ascension robes" and waited for the end of the world.

Talk about a town with more than their share of architectural, cultural and American history!